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hooligan
Southern California and Vancouver Island

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04/21/2006 4:08 AM	Alert
Saw this on another forum (copied with permission) and thought we could all use a reminder... This is from a retriever owning veterinarian: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other than what I learned in first aid. Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke the physiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point is futile, they need IV and lots of it. Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most efficient mean of cooling. However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact. When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of a fan. Just getting the dog wet in not the point, you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate. For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the AC is more efficient). Up to a couple of years ago, I was very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. New white truck fixed a lot of that problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having 2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the truck box where the air flow is better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow. I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days. Alcohol: I do carry it for emergiencies. It is very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other methods are not working. You should be on your way to the veterinarian before you get to this point. We recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is propylene alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to drink it. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed through the skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to get the temperature down. I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan. Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes. I recommend to get a "rectal glass thermometer. The digital ones for the drug store I have found to be very unreliable, Don't forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up. This is VERY IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.8, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low. I cannot emphasis this point enough. When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective. Do not worry about hydration until the temp has started down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air mix in a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal. If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment. The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs response to the different environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but the difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better. Another very important point=> Do not swim your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog cool and dry before putting it up. I know this is s bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand and helps provide some useful information. Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is worth the time and effort.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Rob G
Cedaredge, CO

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04/21/2006 4:40 AM	Alert
Very informative post hooligan.

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stuw
North Central Minnesota

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04/21/2006 4:43 AM	Alert
Great post hooli.....I think Joe should sticky this one...

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bubulkaj Moderator
Blue Springs, Missouri

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04/21/2006 5:34 AM	Alert
As hot of an April that we have had in Missouri this is a very timely reminder for us to watch over our dogs and not push them too much when it is hot out. Sticky it is! Joe

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04/21/2006 7:07 AM	Alert
I carry bottled water all the time and give him quick swigs often-it really helps. One thing I learned the hard way was not to carry COLD water-like ice cold. Did that one time on a real hot 90' day thinking it would help- result-immediate throw up and bloat type situation-It passed quickly-I am lucky I didn't kill him! So let the wter be whatever temp it is outside or a little cool-but not out of a cooler of ice. And only give them a little at a time.

Lab Guy
St. Paul, MN

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04/21/2006 10:05 AM	Alert
Something that I carry around and use while training or whatever is a 1 gallon milk jug full of water and the bottom half of another 1 gallon milk jug. The full jug nests inside the half jug which makes a real handy and cheap water bowl. Works great to give the dawg a quick drink. The only downside is that you need to be at the truck to use it. A friend showed me that trick and I've used it ever since. All of the guys I train with have seen it and have since started to carry the same setup in their truck. Have a good weekend all, I'm off to the cabin to put in the dock and pontoon boat and hopefully catch some crappies. 1 week till Scout comes home from the trainers, I can hardly wait. Jay

hooligan
Southern California and Vancouver Island

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04/21/2006 10:14 AM	Alert
Good idea, Lab Guy! I have an empty bottle I can "modify" right now! I got a thing at one of a pet store called (I think) a guzzler. It is a sleeve/bowl thing that fits over a small water bottle, and has a belt clip. When you flip the sleeve down and squeeze the bottle, it fills the sleeve with water and the dog can get a drink. I never had good luck getting water into my dogs by squeezing it from the bottle into their mouth. This thing works great, and you can take it wherever you go.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Doc_E
N.E. WA state

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04/21/2006 7:45 PM	Alert
A good friend of mine (Harry Williams) posted this on the Refuge. Harry was kind enough to give permission to evryone to cross post. It's an excellent article.

Doc E and Cujo Casey boy.

Jere

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04/21/2006 9:07 PM	Alert
I carry my water in a hiker's Hydrapak - plastic bladder fitted into my shooting vest - complete with a plastic hose with pince valve on the end. One of those pictures I've posted alink to shows me squirting the black dog's belly. I say "roll over" he obliges, I oblige him Whos going to detail how to know when your dog really is heating up? Jere

Paths_beyond

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05/04/2006 12:31 PM	Alert
How to tell if your dog is overheated? It is really a matter of "reading" your dog. This comes from observation and experience. Always ere on the safe side. An extra bird now is not worth an overheated dog. I can tell you what I have seen as I run my dogs in the field as well hunt tests. However, I must caution every dog exhibits overheating differently. I can tell a dog is "too hot and needs a rest" by the color change in the toungue (darker red) in one of my dogs, but the other dog does not exhibit this. In both dogs the toungue will enlarge slightly. I take frequent breaks after a run down a field. I notice the breathing pattern. If it is hard and deep (again compared to "normal") I always make my dogs sit still until the panting has subsided, and then a little more. This can take up to 5 minutes. If it does not stop I go find some shade and rest longer (dog at heel as I walk the field, and yes, not hunt). If you are hot, your dog is hotter. If possible hunt near areas with water so your dog can take a dip. Consider getting your dog near water as you plan your strategy to work the field (even if its not the best way to hunt the field). Early season pheasant hunts can take a toll on many dogs, especially if they are out of shape. That brings up another point, get you and your dogs in shape before opening days. Walk, bike ride, train, whatever. get them exercise. I happen to go grouse hunting in September in the mountains of Colorado. That is less strenouos and cooler than the early season pheasant. Gives me over a month before I hit the pheasant opener in North Dakota. That helps get them into hunting shape (me too). I also train my dogs throughtout the summer which helps as well. Again, can't stress enough to be cautious. Most dogs will hunt until they die. It is my responsibility to control that situation.

drtooth

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07/06/2006 5:13 PM	Alert
I can relate to this......be very careful to cool your dog down before placing into the kennel...the kennel, even though well vented, will still heat up from the dog's breathing. Pay real mind to this and be careful not to place a wet dog into a kennel when the dog is hot, for this will only raise the humidity within the kennel thus raising the temp. Overheating is a really serious thing. Even at 75-80 degrees out the temp inside the kennel is much higher with a hot dog.

Jakebrake

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04/07/2007 5:29 PM	Alert
When transporting in hot weather I use Block ice to keep the dogs cool. just a couple bucks and they dogs are comfy and there are no worries about over heating. I have a pretty deep 2 hole aluminum dog box and last year coming home from camping in the Omak area it was 108 degrees. THe Blocks of ice really did the trick

Paths_beyond

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04/08/2007 8:08 PM	Alert
Great point. I have also used ice blocks. I placed mine in 5 gallon buckets next to/on top of kennels. Didin't want water flowing all over my truck. Just being in the vicinity cools down the area. I also bought some fans that have those freezer packs in them. Only last a couple of hours, so I rotate them in and out of cooler. You also need a good source of power (C batteries get expensive). I bought one of those portable re-chargeable battery sources. That does a good job as well.

Jay
Topeka, KS Go GORILLAS!!

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05/10/2007 1:40 PM	Alert
I know that this is an old thread, but it's about that time again. Another suggestion that has worked well for me. I tried using one of those battery fans, and realized that they really suck. So, I went to Wal-mart and bought one of those 12v fans with the clip on it and the regular 12v plug. It just so happens that this thing fits perfectly inside the circular inset on my plastic kennel. I cut out the inside of the circle, keeping about a 1/4" of the flat. This allowed a ledge for the fan guard to sit on, yet allowed the fan to go into the kennel. I took the clip and oscillating unit off of the fan, and zip tied it all to the kennel along with the switch. My 4Runner has a receptacle in the back, but it probably has enough cord to stretch it if you don't have one. Anyways, this thing really pumps out the air much better than the battery operated jobs, and I'm really liking it. Just something to think about. I'll take a pic if I think about it. Oh, I'm going to bypass the switch, so that the receptacle stays on all of the time. Jay

There is a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness. GMPR APR HR Tornado Allie of Blk Forest

bsmiley
Fishers Indiana

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09/04/2007 6:28 AM	Alert
This is a good thing to consider as we are out in the dove fields in September. Especially that the dog, even though wet, may retain more heat if sitting in the sun, on a still or humid day.

Cody, 2XGMPR, MH Yeager, CPLD (Certified Pointing Lap Dog) Cruz, GMPIA (Grand Master Pain in ...)

Junnie
Nebraska.... Go Big Red

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04/22/2008 3:51 PM	Alert
Holligan: Thanks for the GOOD information. I watched a trial dog with heat stroke. Not good, not good at all. Dog was never the same again. When I'm trialing I try and get my dogs into water every fifteen minutes, that is submerged and cool down if the ground temp is above 70% or so. Some dogs will run till they drop dead.

hooligan
Southern California and Vancouver Island

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04/22/2008 4:30 PM	Alert
I started using a water bottle the dog can drink from (called a "Gulpy") when we were out in the field. I got more water squirted from the bottle on the ground or on the dog than in the dog. Google it-and try it! There are other brands-this is just the one I use.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

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