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Tuesday, February 07, 2012
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Pointing Lab Forums
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The next step.....
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 31 Mar 2010 06:12 AM |
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I have an 18 month old PL that is showing lots of promise being a consistent pointer. We currently guide with my other PL Sky who is a pointing lab and hunting machine. Each dog has seen at least 2500 birds this year, about 1800 together and the rest alone or with GSPS or english setters.
The dog in question Star never really started to develop her point until this spring when she has been away from her sister and either with another pointer or by herself. She now has developed the ability to point farther than the GSP and English setter we have been able to hunt with, as in she is pointing at 30-50 yds. She is backing and honoring like I would expect a normal PL to do but she is only holding for 10-20 seconds and then she will bust the bird. However, on a 20 bird plant hunt she will sometimes just go crazy and bust 4-5 of the birds. She was professionally trained for Waterfowl and had Upland work. BUT, the since she was not pointing as a pup except a wing on a string the trainer did not believe she would point at all.
So, now that you have the background here are my questions:
1. What is my best option to steady here and encourage her to point longer?
2. What do I do to stop the puppy desire to run and flush and encourage the point that is starting to develop?
3. Do I whoa train her? As I mentioned above she is backing any other dog on point except for her "sister". (her house mate a four year old pointing lab)
Thankyou for your help! I am excited that Star appears like she could be an AMAZING pointer after we steady her. I am looking to "finish" her myself so any help/tips are greatly appreciated. Also this will be the first real point encouraging I have ever done as my four year old pointed from eight weeks with no encouragement.
Thanks,
Brian
P.S. I have made believers in the P.L. with my two yellow girls this year. My four year old is making many GSP owners very jealous. |
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 31 Mar 2010 06:13 AM |
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Ok sorry for the formatting. This post was formatted pretty nice until it posted to the forum. |
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Doc_E
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1880
 N.E. WA state
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| 31 Mar 2010 06:46 AM |
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Have you "de-chased" ? . |
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Doc E and Nami E UH HR MHR WR SR Black Forest Casey HR Friar Tucker (titled at 12.5 months) |
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 31 Mar 2010 07:09 AM |
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De-chased as in sit to flush? Then yes that has occurred. |
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Doc_E
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1880
 N.E. WA state
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| 31 Mar 2010 08:07 AM |
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De-chasing is not the same as STF. . |
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Doc E and Nami E UH HR MHR WR SR Black Forest Casey HR Friar Tucker (titled at 12.5 months) |
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Trout Bum
 Advanced Member
 Posts:527 Elbert County, CO
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| 31 Mar 2010 08:51 PM |
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Not much difference between de-chase and STF.......
STF to me, means stop to flush not sit to flush...... I can't help it, besides that's splitten hairs and it doesn't matter. Either way if the dog does indeed STF, she's not chasing..........besides that's not the issue, she needs to figure out to handle birds when they're on the ground, not in the air.
My advice would be to work her alone, get her on as many wild birds as you can and she'll work it out. If she's stoppping at 35-40 yards out, could be a couple of things. Either she's real cautious and just locking up or she's stopping at first scent. The over cautious can be a problem, they point all the time and never pin down the birds. Locking up on first scent is a good thing and if so she's moving in cuz she smelled them but can't pin point them.
That comes with experience. I'd encourage you to let it deveop, don't put a time table on it, or worry about the outcome. It'll worik it's way out one way or the other....Either way if you let her develop, at her speeed, you'll end up with a bird dog.
Whoa training's not a bad thing, use it wisely. Also take a look at the West/Gibbons method. I'm sure Jere will chime in. |
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| ¶r² |
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 01 Apr 2010 07:31 AM |
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When I talk about she is sitting to flush three things have occurred: 1. She and/or I have flushed the bird. 2. She has immediately put her rear on the ground once the bird has taken flight. 3. She is anticipating to be released for the retrieve from her sitting position or sitting where the flush occurred. This depends if I have shot the bird or not. If I have not shot the bird the dog continues to hunt in an appropriate manner. After she has been released from her current sit stay. Therefore, in my understanding of "dechasing" she is indeed dechased. Is this not correct? The only difference is she is sitting to flush not standing to flush. |
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Julie
 Basic Member
 Posts:235
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| 01 Apr 2010 03:56 PM |
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TS, you say in your original post: "but she is only holding for 10-20 seconds and then she will bust the bird." She goes after the bird and produces it. That's where your problem begins and what Doc is referring to. Dechasing as I use the term, knowing it can many different things to different people, is that you remove the desire to produce the bird because if you do, and it flies, there's nothing for the dog. They don't have to sit, they aren't told anything. They just can't go after the bird. This quickly teaches a dog to stop producing a bird because it ends all the fun. If, on the other hand you have a dog sit or stop when a bird flushes (why would you do this if it is already motionless and a pointing dog should be?) then you are allowing the bird busting behavior and enhancing it by only requiring the dog sit when the bird goes into the air. I'm confused reading that. I'll rephrase, when a dog establishes a confident, consistent point, they can then learn that when left alone and not whoa'd or otherwise controlled - that if they move to get the bird and it flies, they can initiate no chase. Sit doesn't fit in anywhere. When they loose the chase initiation, they loose the bird busting. I do it on every dog. There are no downsides, there is no whoa and they are very easy to steady to the shot. But, they can still reposition because they aren't whoa'd and they are maintaining knowledge of the bird. It isn't steady to flush, shot or anything else, but it sure makes those things easy...
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 01 Apr 2010 04:38 PM |
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Posted By Julie on 01 Apr 2010 03:56 PM
TS, you say in your original post: "but she is only holding for 10-20 seconds and then she will bust the bird." She goes after the bird and produces it. That's where your problem begins and what Doc is referring to. Dechasing as I use the term, knowing it can many different things to different people, is that you remove the desire to produce the bird because if you do, and it flies, there's nothing for the dog. They don't have to sit, they aren't told anything. They just can't go after the bird. This quickly teaches a dog to stop producing a bird because it ends all the fun. If, on the other hand you have a dog sit or stop when a bird flushes (why would you do this if it is already motionless and a pointing dog should be?) then you are allowing the bird busting behavior and enhancing it by only requiring the dog sit when the bird goes into the air. I'm confused reading that. I'll rephrase, when a dog establishes a confident, consistent point, they can then learn that when left alone and not whoa'd or otherwise controlled - that if they move to get the bird and it flies, they can initiate no chase. Sit doesn't fit in anywhere. When they loose the chase initiation, they loose the bird busting. I do it on every dog. There are no downsides, there is no whoa and they are very easy to steady to the shot. But, they can still reposition because they aren't whoa'd and they are maintaining knowledge of the bird. It isn't steady to flush, shot or anything else, but it sure makes those things easy...
So in most cases, with a dog that is showing point, if you dechase the dog it will enhance its natural pointing instinct. Is that a true statement? Once she is dechased through the method you give in your book she will learn there is no reward in chasing/charging in on the bird. Correct?
Sorry for the questions I did not have these issues with my other lab. |
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Julie
 Basic Member
 Posts:235
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| 01 Apr 2010 05:07 PM |
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Enhance the point? I don't think of it that way. If the dog is really pointing, as opposed to pointing out the bird it is planning on busting, if that distinction makes sense, then this serves to install that quiet response to a bird encounter. Again, different from many, I don't whoa here. That makes it a contest and I don't do that. I let the young dog or new to pointing dog - do whatever it wants. It can stand there for the magic 20 seconds or whatever time, and then when it tires of doing that and busts the bird and begins to chase it (since I haven't taught the more finished responses of steadiness to bird movement in the air or shot) I quickly teach it that it cannot chase. I am not teaching it to be called off a chase, I am teaching it not to initiate a chase. Important distinction. When the dog no longer responds to the movement or flight of a bird with movement, there is nothing compelling it to bust. Whoa is good for teaching them the manners with birds on the ground, but it doesn't teach them the honest point. Whoa also is great for the steadiness thing on flush, shot, etc. With the occasional odd exception, I have found doing this helps 'staunch things up' more than any other single thing. And there are not negative things that can occur, as do with whoa'ing or physical restraint. You can only help the point, not mess it up at all, so it's a good thing for people who aren't sure of what they are doing at the right instant. Maybe the answer to your question is yes, it does enhance the dog's performance in the field. So, "yes." |
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team sky
 New Member
 Posts:14
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| 01 Apr 2010 05:33 PM |
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Thanks for your help!!! For the most part I have finished her myself. However, now that she is starting to exhibit her natural point I really want to encourage her to develop it. Again, thank you for the help and suggestions! The "book" (your book?) should be here tomorrow so I will follow your process for dechasing her. As soon as I dechase her I should have the complete pointing retriever, Handling to marks out to 300 yds., running blinds, etc., etc., oh and POINTING BIRDS. |
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tigerliberty
 Basic Member
 Posts:252 Michigan
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| 01 Apr 2010 06:44 PM |
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Team sky, Good thread about dechasing here, http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/f...7&t=330738Pay attention to Backwoods and Crosswind both highly successful pointing dog trialers one Coverdog the other NSTRA. I think with all the bird contacts your dog has had and with out a doubt the fact that it has witnessed lots of birds escape or get bagged it knows the standard you have allowed or what is acceptable. One question for you- Birds that are busted are they shot? If so stop shooting. Your running the dog in tandem with other dogs. Again stop competition will also lead to breaking and interupts the dog vs bird concentration, it becomes dog vs dog. Teach the rules. Poor performance no reward. I personally would whoa break the dog especially in this case with a experianced hunter. Whoa will give you the tool to enhance all aspects of steadiness- from on point, steady to wing and shot, backing and in my way of thinking lays the groundwork to dechase when the time is right or in this case if its needed at all which it does not seem to be. |
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Freddie Adams
 New Member
 Posts:77
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| 02 Apr 2010 11:14 AM |
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Try a whoa post: Nothing more than a round metal rod 8' long, drove in the ground 2'. At the top we weld 2 washers on the rod with a D ring sandwich in the middle. A check cord 10' long, then tied to the top on the D ring. It is then hitched around the waist and to the colllar. Tie a wing back on a pigeon and release/toss just out of reach of the dog. When he start to chase, the lead stops him, and the dog teaches itself not to chase. Its important to have a tall post, and lead tied to the top. This keeps an upward pull on the dog as he chases. If the lead was to be tied to low on the post, a sit would be encouraged. |
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Trout Bum
 Advanced Member
 Posts:527 Elbert County, CO
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| 03 Apr 2010 10:12 AM |
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When they loose the chase initiation, they loose the bird busting. I do it on every dog. There are no downsides, there is no whoa and they are very easy to steady to the shot. But, they can still reposition because they aren't whoa'd and they are maintaining knowledge of the bird. It isn't steady to flush, shot or anything else, but it sure makes those things easy... It sure does make sense Julie. I had to read the chapter on dechasing again. I was mistaken, big difference between STF and dechase. Though, they’re close and might have similar results. STF training is for a bird or covey that’s bumped by the dog. A bird they don’t scent or a bird that flushes wild. It doesn’t have any to do with steady to wing on a bird they've pointed and you flush. When STF is in place, breaking them to wing and shot sure is easier. Stop To Flush really comes in real handy for hunting wild birds, especially, grouse or quail. If there’s one bird in the area surely there are more real close buy. If a single busts out of a covey a dog that STF gives you both a better chance at connecting on additional birds. I don’t want them running to me or proceeding with a hunt without a release. When things are in place you can release them from a distance. And they’ll be standing tall and looking the same way as they point, with confidence. Pretty easy to train, all you need are a sack of pigeons. Whoa training has to be in place and just like dechase, the dog needs a strong will to find birds and accustomed to gun shots. Take a walk with your pooch, when he gets out there a little ways toss a pigeon in the air. When your dog sees the bird, whoa him and use the corrections necessary if he doesn't stop, You might be 30-50 yards away while all this is happening. After a few weeks, depending on the dog's progress, add gun fire to the training. Your dog sees the bird, you fire a cap with your blank and hollar whoa. If they break when you fire the blank, correct them again. Head the other direction, wait a while and do it all over again. It doesn’t take long, a couple two three weeks and pays off in big dividends in developing a good bird dog. Though it takes time, I prefer to let the dog figure out how to handle birds on the ground themselves. I’ve got plenty of time to let them figure it out and enjoy the heck out of watching them develop. |
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| ¶r² |
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Jere
 Advanced Member
 Posts:646

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| 03 Apr 2010 03:22 PM |
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Posted By team sky on 01 Apr 2010 05:33 PM
Thanks for your help!!! For the most part I have finished her myself. However, now that she is starting to exhibit her natural point I really want to encourage her to develop it. Again, thank you for the help and suggestions! The "book" (your book?) should be here tomorrow so I will follow your process for dechasing her. As soon as I dechase her I should have the complete pointing retriever, Handling to marks out to 300 yds., running blinds, etc., etc., oh and POINTING BIRDS.
Your dog IS pointing.
Pointing is a natural behavior.
She is NOT steady.
Steadiness is a trained behavior (in most dogs).
I have described one method to finish the dog here: http://www.pointinglabforum.com/build/objects/forums/viewtopic.php?id=1614
I'd send a .pdf copy to your email address if you PM me.
There is a website devoted to this process where successful amateurs and several professionals are available to answer questions and materials are posted to the "Files" section at: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/pointingdogs
Jere |
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| Owned by: Alma Bottom Smokin' Storm - 'Storm' - avatar and Shadow's Tucker - 'Tuck' |
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Jim
 Basic Member
 Posts:144

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| 26 Dec 2011 09:55 PM |
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Posted By Jere on 03 Apr 2010 03:22 PM
Posted By team sky on 01 Apr 2010 05:33 PM
Thanks for your help!!! For the most part I have finished her myself. However, now that she is starting to exhibit her natural point I really want to encourage her to develop it. Again, thank you for the help and suggestions! The "book" (your book?) should be here tomorrow so I will follow your process for dechasing her. As soon as I dechase her I should have the complete pointing retriever, Handling to marks out to 300 yds., running blinds, etc., etc., oh and POINTING BIRDS.
Your dog IS pointing.
Pointing is a natural behavior.
She is NOT steady.
Steadiness is a trained behavior (in most dogs).
I have described one method to finish the dog here: http://www.pointinglabforum.com/build/objects/forums/viewtopic.php?id=1614
I'd send a .pdf copy to your email address if you PM me.
There is a website devoted to this process where successful amateurs and several professionals are available to answer questions and materials are posted to the "Files" section at:
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/pointingdogs
Jere
Jere...I stumbled over this old post of yours. The link you referred to was dead.
Are you still able to e-mail a PDF of your method?
Lemme know and I'll pm you my email.
Thanks!
Jim |
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Paco
 Advanced Member
 Posts:839
 On a trout stream in NW, MI.
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| 27 Dec 2011 06:45 AM |
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Brian , Happy New Year ! Um I think you sent her to the wrong trainer.... ; ) , Frank, Go over to Dales and let him help you out. (or bring her up here along with lots of Birds, Beer, good food, and Money !  ) It's just a matter of teaching those finished manners on birds. Just what the others are telling you. |
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Outlaw Upland~Waterfowl Labs |
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Doc_E
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1880
 N.E. WA state
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| 27 Dec 2011 07:27 PM |
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Posted By Julie on 01 Apr 2010 03:56 PM Dechasing as I use the term, knowing it can many different things to different people, is that you remove the desire to produce the bird because if you do, and it flies, there's nothing for the dog. They don't have to sit, they aren't told anything. They just can't go after the bird. This quickly teaches a dog to stop producing a bird because it ends all the fun. If, on the other hand you have a dog sit or stop when a bird flushes (why would you do this if it is already motionless and a pointing dog should be?) then you are allowing the bird busting behavior and enhancing it by only requiring the dog sit when the bird goes into the air.
I'm confused reading that. I'll rephrase, when a dog establishes a confident, consistent point, they can then learn that when left alone and not whoa'd or otherwise controlled - that if they move to get the bird and it flies, they can initiate no chase. Sit doesn't fit in anywhere. When they loose the chase initiation, they loose the bird busting. I do it on every dog. There are no downsides, there is no whoa and they are very easy to steady to the shot. But, they can still reposition because they aren't whoa'd and they are maintaining knowledge of the bird. It isn't steady to flush, shot or anything else, but it sure makes those things easy...
Exactly what I was referring to (Julie just does it soooo much better). Here's a pic of Tucker (9.5 months old at the time) from a couple years ago (at a Julie Seminar we had out here). Tucker had been "dechased" on only two birds (just a few minutes before). He had been pointing too close and was frequently busting birds. He had been trained to be Steady to Flush/Shot/Fall. We have never done Whoa training. Julie was talking to the crowd (you can see the gunners & Julie in hunter orange). A Chukar had escaped and when Tucker caught scent, he went on this point. I had Tucker at heel, and were walking back to the gallery when he caught scent, so it was a completely spontaneous point (we weren't even 'hunting').......... Solid point (no Whoa or any other command) -- even with all the 'going's on distractions' and all the people in Julie's gallery. As you can see from his head position, the bird was 10 to 12 yards in front of him. He has been ultra-solid ever since. He held this point a number of minutes -- gave me time to go back to the rig, get the camera and return to the area (you can see how far the vehicles were from the training area). De-chasing is da bomb !

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Doc E and Nami E UH HR MHR WR SR Black Forest Casey HR Friar Tucker (titled at 12.5 months) |
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Jim
 Basic Member
 Posts:144

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| 27 Dec 2011 10:03 PM |
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Doc...."Tucker had been "dechased" on only two birds (just a few minutes before). He had been pointing too close and was frequently busting birds. He had been trained to be Steady to Flush/Shot/Fall." Could I prevail upon you to describe: A) How, exactly, did you approach the dechasing on the two birds mentioned above and; B) What technique do you use to train on Steady to Flush/Shot/Fall. THANKS!!!!!!! Jim |
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Doc_E
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1880
 N.E. WA state
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| 28 Dec 2011 07:29 AM |
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av8r I followed Julie's book/methods. . |
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Doc E and Nami E UH HR MHR WR SR Black Forest Casey HR Friar Tucker (titled at 12.5 months) |
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